We were very lucky that our Italian hosts were available on Saturday evening to share a drink with us. They took us to a watering hole that was truly authentic, in that the owner had inherited it from his father and refused to change anything in it at all-- from the dragon hanging by its tail to the black and white pinup (of sorts)... We shared antipasti and a lovely vino rossi siphoned from huge earthenware urns.
It was relatively quiet, with Italian opera playing in the background, and the bar/restaurant owners spoke no English at all. Fantastic. But the company was even better.
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